MyHimalayas

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Gallery North Sikkim Traverse
Ads Gangtok Yumthang to Chatang Lhabala to Lachen Lachen to Thalem Yakthang to Kishong La Kishong to Lingzan Lingzan to Gangtok Ads

Overview map of Sikkim with the route in North Sikkim, starting in Lachung and ending in Lingzan. Overview map of Sikkim with the route in North Sikkim, starting in Lachung and ending in Lingzan.
Map with camps: starting in Yumthang, then over the Lhaba La via Etini (aka Geyrum) and Tsarum to Lachen. From there up into the Zemu valley, overnight in Thalem and Yaktang and then for a daytrip to the Zemu glacier above Yabuk. Via the Kishong La (aka Yumtso La) into the remote valley of Tholung (aka Talung) and after a night at the monastery further down the valley to Lingzan. Map with camps: starting in Yumthang, then over the Lhaba La via Etini (aka Geyrum) and Tsarum to Lachen. From there up into the Zemu valley, overnight in Thalem and Yaktang and then for a daytrip to the Zemu glacier above Yabuk. Via the Kishong La (aka Yumtso La) into the remote valley of Tholung (aka Talung) and after a night at the monastery further down the valley to Lingzan.
Overlooking the busy town of Gangtok stands Emchi gompa where monks assemble in the morning for the ceremony. The hilltop catches the morning sun early, and makes for a relaxing place for sightseeing before it gets busier during the day. Overlooking the busy town of Gangtok stands Emchi gompa where monks assemble in the morning for the ceremony. The hilltop catches the morning sun early, and makes for a relaxing place for sightseeing before it gets busier during the day.
View of Siniolchu from Emchi monastery in Gangtok. The mountain is only 6'886 m high but its fluted summit makes it one of the most stunning Himalayan peaks. If things work as planned, I'll stand at its eastern foot in two weeks during the North Sikkim trek. View of Siniolchu from Emchi monastery in Gangtok. The mountain is only 6'886 m high but its fluted summit makes it one of the most stunning Himalayan peaks. If things work as planned, I'll stand at its eastern foot in two weeks during the North Sikkim trek.
The south and central summit of Kangchenjunga in the morning. The south and central summit of Kangchenjunga in the morning.
Kangchenjunga rises about the lush green forest and valleys near Gangtok. Kangchenjunga rises about the lush green forest and valleys near Gangtok.
Panorama: An hour outside Gangtok in a beautiful forest stands the monastery of Ranka. Panorama: An hour outside Gangtok in a beautiful forest stands the monastery of Ranka. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Ceremony in Ranka monastery. Ceremony in Ranka monastery.
Studies finish in the afternoon. Studies finish in the afternoon.
Panorama of the monastery with the densely forested hills of Sikkim. Panorama of the monastery with the densely forested hills of Sikkim.
Rice terraces near Gangtok in the late afternoon. Rice terraces near Gangtok in the late afternoon.

Sunset in Lachung, after the 6 hour drive from Gangtok. Sunset in Lachung, after the 6 hour drive from Gangtok.
The next morning we start the trek near Yumthang. The porters draw lots to decide who was to carry which load. The next morning we start the trek near Yumthang. The porters draw lots to decide who was to carry which load.
The dense forest gives way to smaller trees and bushes the higher we get on the way to our first camp which lies below the triangular peak in the background. The dense forest gives way to smaller trees and bushes the higher we get on the way to our first camp which lies below the triangular peak in the background.
Camp near Chatang on a small clearing between rhododendrons, strange haze announces bad weather. Camp near Chatang on a small clearing between rhododendrons, strange haze announces bad weather.
Peak across the valley from our camp rises above the mist. Peak across the valley from our camp rises above the mist.
It snowed during the first night, somewhat bleak prospects for the next days. It snowed during the first night, somewhat bleak prospects for the next days.
The mood is a little dull, but there is no talk of not crossing the Lhaba La pass today. The mood is a little dull, but there is no talk of not crossing the Lhaba La pass today.
We climb slowly up to the foot of Laba La through slopes of rhododendron. We climb slowly up to the foot of Laba La through slopes of rhododendron.
View back to camp, luckily the trail is ok for the first hour and we make quick progress. View back to camp, luckily the trail is ok for the first hour and we make quick progress.
Panorama at the foot of Lhabala where we take a break. For some moments it looks as if weather is finally clearing. Panorama at the foot of Lhabala where we take a break. For some moments it looks as if weather is finally clearing. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Lhabha La lies ahead of us and looks much closer than it turns out to be. Lhabha La lies ahead of us and looks much closer than it turns out to be.
After struggling over boulders we're in deep snow and more comes falling from low clouds. After struggling over boulders we're in deep snow and more comes falling from low clouds.
Prayerflags mark the pass that separates the Lachen from the Lachung valley. Though work is hard, all the porters make it without problems. Prayerflags mark the pass that separates the Lachen from the Lachung valley. Though work is hard, all the porters make it without problems.
Finally everybody arrives at the Lhabala, and enjoys a short break. Finally everybody arrives at the Lhabala, and enjoys a short break.
The trail is not used often, and we get many bruises until we find it and struggle down in search for a suitable campsite. The trail is not used often, and we get many bruises until we find it and struggle down in search for a suitable campsite.

A perfect morning lets me forget yesterdays struggle. Over night the weather has cleared, view back of the peak towering above the pass. A perfect morning lets me forget yesterdays struggle. Over night the weather has cleared, view back of the peak towering above the pass.
The beautiful valley at the western side of Lhabala. The beautiful valley at the western side of Lhabala. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Crags rise above the steep hillsides. Crags rise above the steep hillsides.
The thin layer of ice on the frozen creek melts quickly in the hot morning sun. The thin layer of ice on the frozen creek melts quickly in the hot morning sun. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama 360 where mountains rise above the rhododendrons. Panorama 360 where mountains rise above the rhododendrons. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
View down the valley towards Etini where we'll set up the next camp just some hours down. View down the valley towards Etini where we'll set up the next camp just some hours down.
After enjoying the fine morning and recovering from yesterday, we finally pack and march through the beautiful forest and sunny clearings down towards Etini. After enjoying the fine morning and recovering from yesterday, we finally pack and march through the beautiful forest and sunny clearings down towards Etini.
Taking a break in the shade, knowing it will be a short day leads to frequent and long halts. Taking a break in the shade, knowing it will be a short day leads to frequent and long halts.
While the sun is out it gets so hot that yesterday's snowstorm seems like a distant thing from the past, but the snow-covered mountains rising above the firs remind us of colder temperatures to come. While the sun is out it gets so hot that yesterday's snowstorm seems like a distant thing from the past, but the snow-covered mountains rising above the firs remind us of colder temperatures to come.
The way down through thick forest is strenuous, and even the flat parts across muddy meadows require some attention. The way down through thick forest is strenuous, and even the flat parts across muddy meadows require some attention.
The walk through overgrown trails in the hot morning makes it hard to enjoy the hot spring in Tsarum at first. But after a rinse in the cold creek, it feels wonderful to sit under the pipes with hot water. Unlike other hot springs, this one is kept very clean, is visited by few people and the water doesn't even smell bad. It's definitely one of the top-3 hot springs in the Himalayas. The walk through overgrown trails in the hot morning makes it hard to enjoy the hot spring in Tsarum at first. But after a rinse in the cold creek, it feels wonderful to sit under the pipes with hot water. Unlike other hot springs, this one is kept very clean, is visited by few people and the water doesn't even smell bad. It's definitely one of the top-3 hot springs in the Himalayas.
From Tsarum it's a steep walk down into the Teesta valley which takes us the nice village of Lachen. From Tsarum it's a steep walk down into the Teesta valley which takes us the nice village of Lachen.

We stop in Lachen overnight, view of the monastery that stands above the village. We stop in Lachen overnight, view of the monastery that stands above the village.
One hour above Lachen we enter the sidevalley to the west that will take us to the Zemu glacier. The first few days will be the same route like the Green Lake trek. One hour above Lachen we enter the sidevalley to the west that will take us to the Zemu glacier. The first few days will be the same route like the Green Lake trek.
It's only half a day to Thalem, a clearing where will set up camp. Kangchenjunga rises above the trees, and its south summit just makes it through the mist. It's only half a day to Thalem, a clearing where will set up camp. Kangchenjunga rises above the trees, and its south summit just makes it through the mist.
The porters collect mainly dead wood to make a fire for the night. They did not bring a tent, and usually sleep out in small caves. The porters collect mainly dead wood to make a fire for the night. They did not bring a tent, and usually sleep out in small caves.
Despite the freezing cold after sunset, the evenings at camp are usually spent outside the tent until I'm crawl into my sleeping bag after dinner. Playing dominos is a good way until soup and dinner arrives. Each porter has his own tasks at camp: some are responsible for tea, others for cooking food for porters, or collecting firewood. The youngest porter who thinks it's a free ride almost gets a beating from his friends after three days for being too lazy at camp. All the porters are from the same village and get along well. Each porter has his own tasks at camp: some are responsible for tea, others for cooking food for porters, or collecting firewood. The youngest porter who thinks it's a free ride almost gets a beating from his friends after three days for being too lazy at camp. All the porters are from the same village and get along well.
I go to bed early after dinner, the porters sit around the fire for much longer before crawling under the heavy blankets or army sleeping bags they brought with them. I go to bed early after dinner, the porters sit around the fire for much longer before crawling under the heavy blankets or army sleeping bags they brought with them.
My alarm clocks wakes me at 5.30 when Kanchenjunga, the triangular peak in the mid-right, still lies in darkness. My alarm clocks wakes me at 5.30 when Kanchenjunga, the triangular peak in the mid-right, still lies in darkness.
Just before 6.00, the sun hits the southern spur and long ridge of the 8'586 m high peak. Just before 6.00, the sun hits the southern spur and long ridge of the 8'586 m high peak.
Some minutes later, the entire eastern face catches the orange colour. Some minutes later, the entire eastern face catches the orange colour.
The eastern ridge of Kangchenjunga with Simvu and Kangchenjunga. The eastern ridge of Kangchenjunga with Simvu and Kangchenjunga.
Simvo also gets the early morning sun. Simvo also gets the early morning sun.
The play of colours is amazing, the snow and ice turn from orange to yellow. The play of colours is amazing, the snow and ice turn from orange to yellow.
When the sun hits the camp, the magic colours of the mountains have long disappeared. When the sun hits the camp, the magic colours of the mountains have long disappeared.
Breakfast at Talem, the regular chapati, cheese, hot chocolate and stunning views. Breakfast at Talem, the regular chapati, cheese, hot chocolate and stunning views.
On the way to Yakthang (aka Zakchen), the sheer east face of Kangchenjunga rises above the forest. On the way to Yakthang (aka Zakchen), the sheer east face of Kangchenjunga rises above the forest.

A beautiful walk through forest and clearings take us towards Yakthang. We cross some creeks from where we have great views, here Siniolchu and to the right Simvu announce the Zemu glacier. A beautiful walk through forest and clearings take us towards Yakthang. We cross some creeks from where we have great views, here Siniolchu and to the right Simvu announce the Zemu glacier.
Siniolchu is a stunning peak and dominates the scenery in the lower Zemu valley. Siniolchu is a stunning peak and dominates the scenery in the lower Zemu valley.
Relaxing at camp and enjoying a nap after a great lunch with hot noodle soup. Relaxing at camp and enjoying a nap after a great lunch with hot noodle soup.
Panorama of Zemu glacier where peaks are hidden by incoming clouds from the south. Using the extra days I decide to walk up above Yabuk on a daytrip. Panorama of Zemu glacier where peaks are hidden by incoming clouds from the south. Using the extra days I decide to walk up above Yabuk on a daytrip. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Siniolchu: a formidable figure of ice and snow overlooks the Zemu glacier. Siniolchu: a formidable figure of ice and snow overlooks the Zemu glacier.
Clouds move in by the time we have reached a good viewpoint above Yabuk, but Simvu does not lose any of its grandeur. Clouds move in by the time we have reached a good viewpoint above Yabuk, but Simvu does not lose any of its grandeur.
It's hard to really stick to the turn-around time I set, whenever we reach a viewpoint another better spot seems just some minutes away. We do not climb up to the moraine, fog is moving in and it will be a rather long way down to Yakthang. But it was a worthhwile day trip, I've never thought I'd see the Zemu glacier and Siniolchu. It's hard to really stick to the turn-around time I set, whenever we reach a viewpoint another better spot seems just some minutes away. We do not climb up to the moraine, fog is moving in and it will be a rather long way down to Yakthang. But it was a worthhwile day trip, I've never thought I'd see the Zemu glacier and Siniolchu.
Yaktang lies Yaktang lies "just below" the Kishong La, the sun illuminates the gap between Lama Angden (left) and the Siniolchu-chain.
We cross the Zemu river, from now on it will be a steep climb up. We cross the Zemu river, from now on it will be a steep climb up.
Ice clings to the logs over the creek that we cross on the way to Kishong La. Ice clings to the logs over the creek that we cross on the way to Kishong La.
A fantastic walk through untampered rhododendron slopes makes for a fine morning walk. The previous camp lies at the river to the left A fantastic walk through untampered rhododendron slopes makes for a fine morning walk. The previous camp lies at the river to the left
The main summit of Kangchenjunga appears as we ascent the slopes. The main summit of Kangchenjunga appears as we ascent the slopes.
The higher we get, the more mountains are revealed. The higher we get, the more mountains are revealed.
The Twins, a fantastic double peak of snow and ice on the border to Nepal. The Twins, a fantastic double peak of snow and ice on the border to Nepal.
North of the Nepal Peak rises Kirat Chuli, more often called Tent Peak. North of the Nepal Peak rises Kirat Chuli, more often called Tent Peak. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
Panorama on the way to Kishong La with Kangchenjunga and Twins at the far left. To the right lies Thalem where we also camped on the way up the Zemu valley. Panorama on the way to Kishong La with Kangchenjunga and Twins at the far left. To the right lies Thalem where we also camped on the way up the Zemu valley. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture
The snow get deeper the higher we climb. The snow get deeper the higher we climb.
It is a strenuous walk through the snow, and we often rest. It is a strenuous walk through the snow, and we often rest.
Fog moves in, and no sight of the camp yet. Fog moves in, and no sight of the camp yet.
The sun disappears behind the ridge, and the slope finally becomes less steep. The sun disappears behind the ridge, and the slope finally becomes less steep.
It's late afternoon now, but no word of complaints from the porters. It's late afternoon now, but no word of complaints from the porters.
Porter arriving at the flat valley before the pass. Kishong La lies in the middle of the picture, just left of the where the rocky ridge drops and joins the level snow line. Porter arriving at the flat valley before the pass. Kishong La lies in the middle of the picture, just left of the where the rocky ridge drops and joins the level snow line.
More fog starts to move in from camp, view towards north where the black triangle might be a mountain near the Lungnak La More fog starts to move in from camp, view towards north where the black triangle might be a mountain near the Lungnak La
The level of snow came as a surprise, and a fire with wood required to avoid frostbite. We usually picked dead wood for fires, but here we had little alternatives. The level of snow came as a surprise, and a fire with wood required to avoid frostbite. We usually picked dead wood for fires, but here we had little alternatives.
e more averse The conditions, the cozier it becomes "The more averse the conditions, the cozier it becomes". This is not really true of extreme situations, but today was simply a tough walk with an uncomfortable camp on snow; and the instant noodle soup tastes delicious.

After a strange night with little rest - porters wake me with fearful faces because they have heard yetis laughing on the ridge just above us, and made me move my tent to the fire - porters eat breakfast and prepare for a tough day. After a strange night with little rest - porters wake me with fearful faces because they have heard yetis laughing on the ridge just above us, and made me move my tent to the fire - porters eat breakfast and prepare for a tough day.
At first everything looks easy, snow is not deep and the day could not be any better. At first everything looks easy, snow is not deep and the day could not be any better.
The pass is visible from far away, it is the little dip at the right. It is known as Kishong La these days, but earlier explorers referred to it as Yumtso La if I'm not mistaken. The pass is visible from far away, it is the little dip at the right. It is known as Kishong La these days, but earlier explorers referred to it as Yumtso La if I'm not mistaken.
By crossing some creeks we march towards the foot of the pass at the horizon. By crossing some creeks we march towards the foot of the pass at the horizon.
The first deep snowfield is crossed with few complaints by the porters. The first deep snowfield is crossed with few complaints by the porters.
But as fog moves in, and more and more snow appears, the isolated grunts become more and more coordinated. But as fog moves in, and more and more snow appears, the isolated grunts become more and more coordinated.
The toughest part on the way to the pass, a steep slope with snow to the waist and ugly boulder in between. If I hadn't broken trail we would have to turn around, so I go ahead and manage to motivate the porters to follow: two porters at the end were about to turn around, another one is scared and thinks he'll die. I check everybody and they are fine, no threat of injuries or frostbite but to be sure I hand out my extra clothes. The toughest part on the way to the pass, a steep slope with snow to the waist and ugly boulder in between. If I hadn't broken trail we would have to turn around, so I go ahead and manage to motivate the porters to follow: two porters at the end were about to turn around, another one is scared and thinks he'll die. I check everybody and they are fine, no threat of injuries or frostbite but to be sure I hand out my extra clothes.
The last climb before the pass, at least I hope so. The last climb before the pass, at least I hope so.
One last gully and we're on top of the ridge, unfortunately without views because bad weather from Mangan has now reached the pass. One last gully and we're on top of the ridge, unfortunately without views because bad weather from Mangan has now reached the pass.
Wind and snow drives us off the pass without a stop, some minutes down the other side we take a break. a sense of relief and achievement is shared by everybody. Wind and snow drives us off the pass without a stop, some minutes down the other side we take a break. a sense of relief and achievement is shared by everybody.
The Kishong valley ( The Kishong valley ("peaceful land") is a stunningly fertile and colourful place which is used as a grazing ground in summer. in PanoramaViewer (Applet) or as wide picture

It snows considerably the entire night and with no change of weather in sight we head down to Tsholing already. I would have liked to spend more time up in the Kishong valley, but the porters are eager to reach warmer temperatures, and worked so hard yesterday that I can't really intervene. I stay one hour longer, and follow the animal tracks that are everywhere in the snow, however without spotting any of them. It snows considerably the entire night and with no change of weather in sight we head down to Tsholing already. I would have liked to spend more time up in the Kishong valley, but the porters are eager to reach warmer temperatures, and worked so hard yesterday that I can't really intervene. I stay one hour longer, and follow the animal tracks that are everywhere in the snow, however without spotting any of them.
Snow, sleet, rain - all the way until we reach the forest and stumble on incredibly muddy paths through the forest. The worst part of the walk is a very, very shaky and partly rotten bridge where the rope only gives psychological help. Snow, sleet, rain - all the way until we reach the forest and stumble on incredibly muddy paths through the forest. The worst part of the walk is a very, very shaky and partly rotten bridge where the rope only gives psychological help.
After a strenuous day we reach Tholung gompa where the weather clears in the afternoon. After a strenuous day we reach Tholung gompa where the weather clears in the afternoon.
The monastery of Tolung is home to great ancient treasures which are revealed during a festival every three years. It was one of the last places in Sikkim visited by Westerners, even the British did not manage to enter the valley because locals were The monastery of Tolung is home to great ancient treasures which are revealed during a festival every three years. It was one of the last places in Sikkim visited by Westerners, even the British did not manage to enter the valley because locals were "inhospitable".
After days in snow the walk through lush forest comes as a nice change. After days in snow the walk through lush forest comes as a nice change.
It truly is an enchanted forest in the Talung valley, no wonder a monastery was built up here. It truly is an enchanted forest in the Talung valley, no wonder a monastery was built up here.
Clearings in the forest reveal the stunning autumn foliage and the mountains above it. Clearings in the forest reveal the stunning autumn foliage and the mountains above it.
We've reached almost the very end of the Talung valley, and are high above the Ringi Chu. Clouds are already moving up to the Siniolchu dropping more snow there. It was a good idea not to stay up in Kishong, we might have gotten another foot of snow, and getting down the steep valley would have been very difficult. We've reached almost the very end of the Talung valley, and are high above the Ringi Chu. Clouds are already moving up to the Siniolchu dropping more snow there. It was a good idea not to stay up in Kishong, we might have gotten another foot of snow, and getting down the steep valley would have been very difficult.
Large variety of butterflies follow us on the way down between fields of cardomom. Large variety of butterflies follow us on the way down between fields of cardomom.
After a long descent the ricefields of Lingzan finally appear below us. A road ends here, and instead of walking 4 hours to Mangan tomorrow, we will take a taxi if we manage to order one. After a long descent the ricefields of Lingzan finally appear below us. A road ends here, and instead of walking 4 hours to Mangan tomorrow, we will take a taxi if we manage to order one.
It is difficult to find a place to stay, but where lucky and are welcomed by the local monastery which educates young monks from the area. It is supported by a French NGO. It is difficult to find a place to stay, but where lucky and are welcomed by the local monastery which educates young monks from the area. It is supported by a French NGO.
The children would not get an education otherwise, and are free to pick other occupations or schools later. It's a great place to end the trek here. The children would not get an education otherwise, and are free to pick other occupations or schools later. It's a great place to end the trek here.
Some porters celebrated their return to civilization with a little too much chang (barley beer) but we managed to wake them for the group picture. Some porters celebrated their return to civilization with a little too much chang (barley beer) but we managed to wake them for the group picture.
Last view of Kangchenjunga from Lingshan that rises above the steep hillsides. Last view of Kangchenjunga from Lingshan that rises above the steep hillsides.
Back in Gangtok, a good haircut and shave followed by a hot bath are the first priority for me. Back in Gangtok, a good haircut and shave followed by a hot bath are the first priority for me.
Enjoying the luxuries of modern life after the trek: hot chocolate at the Bakery Cafe in Gangtok's Bazaar. Enjoying the luxuries of modern life after the trek: hot chocolate at the Bakery Cafe in Gangtok's Bazaar.
The Himalayas pass by the right window during the flight from Bagdogra to Delhi: all the majestic peaks of the eastern Himalayas: Jannu, Kangchenjunga, Rathong, Kabru, Talung, Kangchenjunga, Pandim, Simvu, Siniolchu. I can't believe all the weeks of carefree walking I have spent here the last few years, and hope many more will follow. The Himalayas pass by the right window during the flight from Bagdogra to Delhi: all the majestic peaks of the eastern Himalayas: Jannu, Kangchenjunga, Rathong, Kabru, Talung, Kangchenjunga, Pandim, Simvu, Siniolchu. I can't believe all the weeks of carefree walking I have spent here the last few years, and hope many more will follow.